As someone who has spent over forty years carving lines on the waves, longboard surfing is more than just a pastime—it’s a lifelong passion and an ongoing love affair with the sea. The simplicity and elegance of longboard surfing create a unique and profound experience, much like the effortless glide of a pelican skimming the water’s surface.
Embracing the Ocean’s Dance
Longboarding, defined by its nine-foot-plus boards, is a nod to the origins of surfing. These boards provide a steady, forgiving platform, making it easier to paddle and catch waves. This accessibility allows for smooth, flowing movements that look as graceful as they feel. While shortboarding often emphasises speed and aggressive turns, longboarding is about style, fluidity, and a deep connection with the wave.
The beauty of longboarding is found in the glide. The extra length and volume of the board allow surfers to catch waves with ease and maintain momentum over great distances. This effortless motion, akin to flying, is where the true essence of longboarding lies.
Emulating the Pelican’s Grace
There is something magical about watching a pelican glide over the ocean, using the air currents above the waves to soar with minimal effort. This effortless grace is what longboard surfers strive to achieve. The feeling of riding a wave on a longboard mirrors the pelican’s glide—smooth, balanced, and seemingly without effort. For over four decades, this sensation has captivated me. Longboarding prioritises finesse over force, allowing surfers to ride waves with a sense of ease and tranquillity. The experience is not just about the ride but about becoming one with the wave, much like a pelican in flight.
A Deep Connection with Nature
Longboard surfing cultivates a profound connection with the natural world. The longer rides and focus on fluid movements require surfers to attune themselves to the ocean’s rhythms. This connection offers a sense of peace and grounding that is often elusive in everyday life. The act of paddling out, the sound of the waves, and the feel of the board gliding over the water create a meditative state that is both calming and invigorating. This meditative quality is one of longboarding’s greatest appeals, providing a holistic workout for the body, mind, and soul.
The Art of Longboarding
Longboard surfing is as much an art form as it is a sport. The ability to perform manoeuvres such as cross-stepping, nose riding, and drop-knee turns requires a blend of balance, coordination, and creativity. Each surfer’s unique style turns every ride into a personal expression of their connection with the wave. Cross-stepping involves walking up and down the length of the board while maintaining balance, resulting in a fluid and graceful movement. Nose riding, where the surfer stands at the very front of the board with their toes hanging over the edge, is a quintessential longboarding manoeuvre that epitomises elegance and skill. These moves are not just about physical prowess but about understanding and feeling the wave.
The Longboarding Community
The longboarding community is known for its welcoming and laid-back culture. Unlike the competitive atmosphere that can sometimes accompany shortboard surfing, longboarders often prioritise camaraderie and a shared love for the ocean. This sense of community is evident in the way surfers support each other, both in and out of the water. Longboarding events and competitions, while showcasing incredible talent and athleticism, often have a relaxed and friendly vibe. These gatherings celebrate not just the sport but the lifestyle and values associated with longboarding—respect for the ocean, a love for nature, and a commitment to environmental stewardship.
The Timeless Appeal of Longboarding
Longboard surfing’s appeal is timeless. While trends in the surfing world may come and go, the classic style and approach of longboarding remain ever relevant. This enduring popularity stems from the sport’s core principles: simplicity, elegance, and a deep connection with nature. For many, longboarding represents a return to the roots of surfing. It’s a reminder of the pure joy of riding a wave, the thrill of being in harmony with the ocean, and the simple pleasure of gliding over water.
Embracing Sustainability
Longboard surfing’s emphasis on sustainability and respect for nature aligns closely with environmental values. Many longboard surfers are passionate advocates for ocean conservation and actively work to protect coastal ecosystems. The sport’s culture promotes mindfulness about the environment, encouraging surfers to become stewards of the sea. This commitment to sustainability is reflected in the choice of materials and practices within the longboarding community. From using eco-friendly boards and gear to participating in beach clean-ups and conservation efforts, longboarders often lead by example in promoting environmental stewardship.
Final Thoughts…
Longboard surfing is a celebration of the ocean’s beauty and the human spirit’s desire for harmony and expression. It’s a sport that transcends age, skill level, and background, offering a unique blend of physical challenge, artistic expression, and meditative calm. The sensation of gliding along a wave, like a pelican soaring above the water, is a timeless experience that captures the essence of what it means to be connected with nature.
